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Just when I was ready to shout about my new DI*Klipstick from Isamaya—they pulled a plot twist that changed everything I admired.

I was obsessed with every new drop—until the last one…

Instead of the wild, conversation-starting energy that made Isamaya so addictive, they introduced the Core Collection—a lineup of minimalist, simple shapes inspired by lab aesthetic. No shock factor. No bold statement pieces. Just… normal.

Isamaya’s DNA has always been about provocation, making a statement, and dropping collections that feel like a subcultural fever dream—BDSM aesthetics, wild girly rockstars, cowgirl fantasies. The kind of beauty that demands attention.

And it worked. The brand achieved impressive financial success in its first year, hitting seven-figure revenues, according to Ffrench herself. That means at least $1 million in sales—no small feat for an independent beauty brand.

So, what happened? Did the audience fail to buy into beauty as collectible art?

Here’s why I think things shifted:

1. The fanbase loves the brand’s aesthetic but isn’t necessarily buying it. Plenty of admiration, but just as many abandoned shopping carts.

2. Producing avant-garde beauty takes time—multiple iterations can delay launches. And from what Isamaya herself has shared in interviews, she’s involved in every stage of the process, which adds even more complexity.

3. Statement pieces like DI*K Lipstick (around $90) are often bought solo, while mainstream beauty brands move full-face kits (4-6 items per order), making their sales strategy more profitable.

The new strategy is clear: streamlined production, same price with higher margins, and a stronger emphasis on formulas.

But here’s the problem—I don’t want generic. Sure, the quality might be great, but my love for Isamaya was about the shock factor, the punk attitude that felt like a statement.

I get the logic of having a basic line—something more people can afford. But if your brand is built on provocation, you have to commit to it. Think couture brands—they drop wild collections just for the buzz, even if they don’t sell out.

While Isamaya’s iconic pieces have faded into the past, let’s take a look back at some of the most collectible creations—beauty as art, at its finest.

INDUSTRIAL

BEAUTY WITH AN EDGE

Debuting in 2022, Industrial cemented Isamaya Beauty’s reputation as a disruptor. It embraced the visual language of BDSM—pierced product caps, a mascara wrapped in black rubber, 3D-printed with a sculpted naked torso. This collection challenged traditional beauty standards, embracing a raw, mechanical aesthetic.

Branded as “unadulterated freedom and individuality,” it wasn’t designed for the mainstream—it was for those who treat makeup as an extension of identity rather than just a finishing touch.

WILD STAR

RHINESTONES, GOLD, AND A WHOLE LOT OF ATTITUDE

Launched in late 2022, Wild Star took Isamaya Beauty into Western-inspired glam. Rhinestones, gold accents, and suede textures made this collection a love letter to kitsch, excess, and unapologetic self-expression.

It wasn’t just about cowboy aesthetics—it was a full-throttle ride into a world where beauty meets spectacle, embracing the fantasy of frontier glamour with an extravagant twist.

LIPS

WHEN BEAUTY GETS BOLD

In early 2023, Isamaya Beauty didn’t just release a lipstick—it made a statement. The LIPS collection featured sleek, anatomically correct cock’n’balls chrome case, instantly turning heads and selling out in no time.

Captured through Zhong Lin’s lens, the campaign blurred the lines between beauty, art, and rebellion. Beyond aesthetics, Isamaya Beauty backed it up with a donation to Planned Parenthood, reinforcing its stance on sexual and reproductive rights.

COLLABORATIONS

Isamaya knows that true innovation comes from collaboration. By teaming up with industry experts like FaceGym and Lashify, she ensures that Isamaya Beauty is about game-changing products. These partnerships blend cutting-edge technology with pro-level expertise, pushing beauty beyond the ordinary.

X FACEGYM

X LASHIFY

CORE

BASIC SHAPES, FORMULA-FOCUSED

The new CORE COLLECTION takes inspiration from the sleek, clinical world of lab injections—think Substance movie vibes. It’s a nod to the sculpting essentials Isamaya has relied on both backstage in her professional work and in her personal makeup kit.

The focus here is on functionality, with products built around an active ingredient core, blending skincare benefits with high-performance makeup. A wide range of sculpting shades and tones allows for seamless, natural skin enhancement.

Unlike previous creativity-driven drops, this collection leans more into product performance and ingredients—almost as if the team convinced Isamaya to tone it down this time.

A FANBASE BUILT ON BOLDNESS—BUT WILL IT STAY?

Isamaya has built a devoted fan base that connects with her bold, authentic style. Even if the business strategically shifts toward collections that prioritize product performance with a more streamlined execution, it remains a testament to how strong branding and a distinct creative vision can foster lasting loyalty.

The real question is whether the brand can retain its rebellious spirit while embracing a more commercially viable path—or if playing it safe will eventually dull the spark that made Isamaya Beauty stand out in the first place.

Personally, I’m a huge fan of everything Isamaya brings to the beauty market. What’s next? We’ll have to wait and see.

UNDER THE HOOD

FROM ORCHIDEA

We kicked off the year with some big projects in beauty and healthcare, keeping the team busy. But later this month, we’ve got something fresh and exciting coming in Supplements. Stay tuned ❣️🎀🍸🎱

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Cheers, Orchidea team